The Power Just Went Out!

Power outages that occur in severe weather, or that last for extended periods of time, place a heavy burden on the system at the moment power is restored. You can help prevent an overload on the system and possibly another outage by taking these steps:

• Turn off every inside light except one.

• Turn down your thermostat.

• In cold weather, close windows and drapes to save heat. Pick one room on the warm side of the house (preferably one with a fireplace). Close the door to the rest of the house and use blankets to insulate your windows.

• If the outage lasts over 60 minutes, turn off your electric water heater.

• Make sure your kitchen range is off, both the surface and the oven. Never use it for heat.

• Turn off all unnecessary appliances.

• Avoid opening the freezer door. A full, freestanding freezer will keep food at freezing temperatures for about two days; a half-full freezer about a day. For more information about food safety during and after a power outage, call the USDA Food Safety Hotline at 1-800-535-4555.

• If you see a downed power line, STAY AWAY! And call your cooperative at once!

• Leave your porch light on so workers will know when your power has been restored.

• When power comes back on, slowly switch your appliances and lights back on and gradually return your thermostat to its normal setting.

Severe Weather Preparation

Severe weather can sometimes put us in the dark. You'll be safer and less inconvenienced if you have the following emergency supplies on hand:
• Flashlight with fresh batteries
• Radio with fresh batteries
• Candles and holders
• Blankets
• Matches
• Wind-up clock
• Firewood and kindling
• Manual can opener
• Charcoal grill with charcoal
• Paper plates and plastic utensils
• Lighter
• Bottled water
• Nonperishable food
• Extra batteries

Holiday Safety

The Consumer Products Safety Commission suggests following these tips to make your holiday a safe one.

Trees:

-When purchasing an artificial tree, look for the label "Fire Resistant." Although this label does not mean the tree won't catch fire, it does indicate the tree will resist burning and should extinguish quickly.
-When purchasing a live tree, check for freshness. A fresh tree is green, needles are hard to pull from branches and when bent between your fingers, needles do not break. -The trunk butt of a fresh tree is sticky with resin, and when tapped on the ground, the tree should not lose many needles.
-When setting up a tree at home, place it away from fireplaces and radiators. Because heated rooms dry live trees out rapidly, be sure to keep the stand filled with water. -Place the tree out of the way of traffic and do not block doorways.

Lights:

-Indoors or outside, use only lights that have been tested for safety by a recognized testing laboratory, which indicates conformance with safety standards. Use only lights that have fused plugs.
-Check each set of lights, new or old, for broken or cracked sockets, frayed or bare wires, or loose connections, and throw out damaged sets. Always replace burned-out bulbs promptly with the same wattage bulbs.
-Use no more than three standard-size sets of lights per single extension cord. Make sure the extension cord is rated for the intended use.
-Never use electric lights on a metallic tree. The tree can become charged with electricity from faulty lights, and a person touching a branch could be electrocuted.
-Before using lights outdoors, check labels to be sure they have been certified for outdoor use.
-Fasten outdoor lights securely to trees, house walls, or other firm supports to protect the lights from wind damage. Use only insulated staples to hold strings in place, not nails or tacks. Or, run strings of lights through hooks (available at hardware stores).
-Turn off all lights when you go to bed or leave the house. The lights could short out and start a fire.
-For added electric shock protection, plug outdoor electric lights and decorations into circuits protected by ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Portable outdoor GFCIs can be purchased where electrical supplies are sold. GFCIs can be installed permanently to household circuits by a qualified electrician.
Decorations:

-Use only non-combustible or flame-resistant materials to trim a tree. Choose tinsel or artificial icicles of plastic or nonleaded metals. Leaded materials are hazardous if ingested by children.
-Never use lighted candles on a tree or near other evergreens. Always use non-flammable holders, and place candles where they will not be knocked down.
-In homes with small children, take special care to avoid decorations that are sharp or breakable, keep trimmings with small removable parts out of the reach of children to avoid the child swallowing or inhaling small pieces, and avoid trimmings that resemble candy or food that may tempt a child to eat them.
-Wear gloves to avoid eye and skin irritation while decorating with spun glass "angel hair." Follow container directions carefully to avoid lung irritation while decorating with artificial snow sprays.

Fireplaces:

-Use care with "fire salts," which produce colored flames when thrown on wood fires. They contain heavy metals that can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation and vomiting if eaten. Keep them away from children.
-Do not burn wrapping papers in the fireplace. A flash fire may result as wrappings ignite suddenly and burn intensely.

Dishwasher Maintenance

With the winter and the holidays coming, your dishwasher is likely to get a little more and harder use. You may want to treat for scale build-up and perform a maintenance inspection. Over time, build-ups from various causes can become deposited on the inside walls and heating element of the dishwasher. Remove all dishwasher contents (leave the racks) and run with no detergent and the following, as applicable: for mold, place one tablespoon of bleach in your dishwasher and run it for a full cycle; for rust, use a rust remover (ask for the right one at a hardware store) and run a cycle; for stains, place a cupful of white vinegar in your dishwasher and run it for a full cycle. An alternative to vinegar is baking soda.

Maintain your Large Appliances

As the holiday season begins, make sure your appliances are prepared for the demands you will place on them.

- Pull your refrigerator from the wall and clean the condenser coils in back with a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. Also, vacuum dust from the front lower grille and clean the drip pan and the drain leading to it (if your unit has one).
- Clean the oven and stove drip pans on your electric range. Clean the surface burner on your gas stove to ensure proper flame level.
- De-stench your in-sink garbage disposal by packing it with ice cubes and 1/4 cup of baking soda; then turn it on. After the ice-grinding noise stops, pour a kettle full of boiling water into the sink.
- Check the dishwasher strainer and washer arm; clean if necessary.

Fall Home Winterizing

Check the gutters and downspouts: Are they unclogged and free of litter? Are the joints tight? Are extenders and splash blocks under the downspouts? Any leaves in the roof valleys? Check for tree branches overhanging roofs. See if the septic tank needs pumping out. Be sure the pool is properly shut down and winterized. Check/provide snow fences if needed to direct the snow away from the house. Assess your back yard for winter: Is the BBQ put away and covered? Are lawn and garden tools stored in the shed or garage? Has the lawn furniture been winterized? Make sure there’s room in the garage for your car(s). Have hose bib covers handy for a freeze. Check the nooks and crannies for snakes, spiders and scorpions that will be looking for winter warmth. Check windows: Are they tightly caulked? Have window screens been removed and cleaned? Is your weather stripping tight? In the North: Have something handy to de-ice walkways and steps. In the South: Be sure rat/mouse bait is in places safe for pets and children.

Fall Lawn Tips

There are a number of things that you can do to prepare your lawn for the winter and to ensure that it comes back strong in the fall. The cool night temperatures we are currently experiencing are probably already strengthening your lawn after the hot and dry summer. You may be noticing improved grass color and density. Now is the perfect time to enhance the grass's recovery with a few simple steps.

After the summer, it is likely that your lawn needs some supplemental fertilization. Nitrogen will be needed in the largest quantity and you should apply 1 pound of slow-release nitrogen fertilizer per thousand square feet of lawn. This will help the lawn to recover from summer stresses and will further improve grass color and density.

As the cooler weather intensifies, you will also be able to stop irrigating your lawn. It's easy to forget that changes in the program of your irrigation controller are necessary at this time of the year. The grass does not need as much irrigation as it did during the heat of the summer and it's the perfect opportunity for conservation. A great deal of water can be wasted in the fall because irrigation controllers are not adjusted for the cooler temperatures.

As it gets even cooler and winter is just around the corner, you will notice that your lawn is growing much more slowly. At some point, you will perform your last mowing of the growing season. This is a critical time in the life and health of your lawn. Hopefully you have been mowing at a height of 2 1/2 -3 1/2 inches to promote root growth and stress tolerance. This is a good practice, but not a good one to follow with your final mowing of the season. This last mowing should be much shorter, from 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Mowing at this shorter height will not leave long grass blades over the winter that can lay over and increase humidity beneath snow cover. If the grass blades are very long, and there is lengthy snow cover, a disease called snow mold may occur.

After your final mowing is also the best time to apply your last fertilization of the growing season. Once again, nitrogen is of primary concern. Following your last mowing, you'll want to apply 1 pound of quick-release nitrogen fertilizer per thousand square feet of lawn. It's important that the nitrogen source be quick-release so that the grass can take it up before going dormant due to cold. This is probably the most critical fertilization of the entire growing season and should not be missed! Research has shown that this late fall fertilization provides the most benefit and drought tolerance to the lawn the FOLLOWING summer.

These simple steps will ensure that your lawn makes it not only through the winter, but into next summer healthy and stronger.

How Long Will My Home Systems and Components Typically Last?

A well-built home can last for hundreds of years, but many of its parts must be replaced or removed regularly.

Here's a sampling of average life expectancy in years for different products and materials used in the home, as listed in a report titled "1997 Housing Facts, Figures and Trends" published by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) based in Washington, D.C. These are estimates only. I am making no guarantees or promises.

The number following the item is in years.

APPLIANCES

Compactor,disposal
Using regularly is the best maintenance. Also grinding bones helps clear away build-up 10
Dishwasher
Proper maintenance includes checking to see if water temperature is at least 130 degrees F and cleaning the filter and screens 10
Dryer
Proper maintenance includes regularly cleaning out the lint, tightening the connection between the wires and the heating element, lubricating the pulleys and rollers, and examining the exhaust outlet. 10
Freezer (compact)
Proper maintenance includes regularly cleaning the condenser coils every three months and sanitizing the door gaskets in order to maintain an effective seal. 12
Freezer (standard)
Same as compact freezers. 16
Microwave Oven 11
Range (free-standing electric)
Proper maintenance includes checking electrical connections, checking the oven vent for blockage and making sure the surface units are secure and level. 17
Range (gas)
Properly maintained by cleaning the igniters once a year. 19
Range (High Oven, gas)
Same as free standing gas ranges. 14
Refrigerator (Compact)
Proper maintenance includes cleaning the condenser coils every three months, sanitizing the door gaskets in order to maintain an effective seal, cleaning the mouth of the drain, and occasionally pouring a tablespoon of chlorine bleach followed by water in order to keep blockages from forming. 14
Refrigerator (Standard)
Same as compact refrigerator 17
Washer (Auto and Compact)
Proper maintenance includes checking the shaft seal, lubricating the pump, and tightening the belts. 13
Exhaust fan 20

BATHROOMS

Cast Iron Bathtub 50
Fiberglass Tub and shower 10-15
Shower Door (average quality) 25
Toilet 50

CABINETRY

Kitchen Cabinets 15-20
Medicine Cabinets/Bath Vanity 20

COUNTER TOPS

Laminate 10-15
Ceramic Tile (high grade) Lifetime
Wood/Butcher Block or Granite 20+

DOORS

Screen 25-50
Interior (Not perfect Hollow Core) <30

Interior (Solid Core Wood) 30+
Exterior (Unprotected Exposed) 25-30
Folding 30+
Garage Door 20-50
Garage Door Opener 10

FINISHES

Paint, Plaster, Stucco 3-5
Sealer, Silicone, and Waxes 1-5

FLOORS

Oak, Pine, or Slate Flagstone Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or Tile 20-30
Terrazzo Lifetime
Carpeting 11
Marble Lifetime

FOOTINGS AND FOUNDATIONS

Poured Footing and Foundation 200
Concrete Block 100
Cement 50
Waterproofing (bituminous coating)
(cracking results in immediate damage) 10
Termite Proofing
(may have shorter life in damp climates) 5
Baseboard System 20

HEATING, VENTILATION AND A/C

A/C Unit (Central)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 15
A/C Unit (Window Unit)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 10
Humidifier
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 8
Water Heater (Electric)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 14
Water Heater (Gas)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 11-13
Forced Air Furnace, Heat Pump
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 15
Furnace, Gas or Oil Fired
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 18

LANDSCAPING

Wooden Deck
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 15
Brick and Concrete Patio
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 24
Concrete Walk
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 24
Gravel Walk
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 4
Asphalt Driveway
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 10
Swimming Pool
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 18
Sprinkler System, Fence
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 12

PAINTS AND STAINS

Exterior Paint
Varies from the materials and products used 7-10
Interior Wall, Trim, Door Paint
Varies from the materials and products used 5-10
Interior Wallpaper
Varies from the materials and products used 7

PLUMBING

Waste Pipe (Concrete)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 50-100
Waste Pipe (Cast Iron)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 75-100
Sink (Enamel, Steel)
Varies from the materials and products used in the construction. 5-10
Sink (Enamel Cast Iron, Porcelain)
Much more durable 25-30
Faucets (Low Quality) 13-15
High Quality Faucets 15-20

ROOFING

Asphalt and Wood Shingles and Shakes
Last longer if pressure treated.
15-30
Tile
Depends on quality of tile and the climate. 50
Slate
Depends on the grade. 50-100
Sheet metal
Depends on gauge of metal, the quality of coatings and application. 20-50+
Built-up Roofing (Asphalt)
Depends on materials and drainage. Coatings will add to life. 12-25
Built-up Roofing (Coat and Tar)
Depends on quality of materials,thoroughness of design and application. 12-30
Asphalt Composition Shingle 15-30
Asphalt Overlay 25-35

SIDING

Gutters and Downspouts 30
Siding (wood) 10-100
Siding (steel) 50-Life
Siding (aluminum) 20-50
Siding (vinyl) 50

WINDOWS

Window Glazing 20
Wood Casement 20-50
Aluminum Casement 10-20
Screen 25-50

(In some categories, installation, quality and traffic/usage impact life greatly.)

Gas Lighter Bars and Gas Log Maintenance

Those handy gas starter pipes start a fire quickly, but they deteriorate over time and need to be replaced (as do their gas mixing valves). Look for excessive rust scaling, cracks, stripped threads on the joints or blocked gas outlet holes. Many fireplace/heating supply stores carry them or can order them for you. Be sure to get the proper natural gas or propane mixing valve. Gas logs should be serviced annually (we suggest your dealer) to help assure proper performance. Over time, the materials that help create the realistic gas flame will become worn and dirty, and replacing the embers and sand/vermiculite will help your log set perform and look like new. Consult your Owners Manual to determine the correct type of material to use and how it should be applied. Do not substitute materials or attempt to make alterations to your gas log set; doing so may cause dangerous conditions. Some helpful items to renew the realism of your fireplace include soot remover spray, replacement "glowing ember" lava rocks and rock wool mixture to replace the original material that came with your gas log set.

Window Replacement

Window replacements are among the most common home remodeling projects and can help save on winter heating bills. According to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), window replacements total 44% of all remodeling jobs. If you are a proficient handyman, window replacement is a task that does not necessarily require a contractor. Replacing an old window is something a Do It Yourself homeowner can tackle with some basic carpenter’s knowledge and a few basic carpentry tools that you probably already own. If your old wooden window is drafty, does not open or close well, or is showing signs of water damage and decay, it is probably time to think about replacing it with a state-of-the-art, Low-E glass, new vinyl clad window.

Major Home Systems Defined

All home's consist of the following major systems:

The Foundation- Holds a Home in Place

The Structure- Keeps the Home's Shape

The Roof- Keeps the Home Dry

The Exterior- Protects from the Elements

The Interior- Circulates Heat, Air and Water

The Plumbing System- Transports Water and Waste

The Electrical System- Keeps Lights and Appliances Running

The Heating and Cooling Systems- Creates a Comfortable Environment

A Home Inspector You Can Count On

At Hidden Valley Property Inspection, we know that you spend a lot of time building your real estate business.

Make sure your clients are getting the most comprehensive, experienced, and professional inspections available by working with Hidden Valley Property Inspection.

A home inspection from Hidden Valley Property Inspection can help the transaction process go smoothly. Buyers can make an informed decision on the home and can better plan for upgrades down the road. Sellers who obtain a pre-inspection often see their listing sell more quickly. Your clients will feel more comfortable with their decision, and will be more satisfied with the process when it's complete. Your professional Inspector and the advanced computer-driven Home Inspector Pro reporting technology, best represent you, your business, and your clients. It's a positive experience for everyone.

Help foster confident home buying decisions with our superior home inspection services.

Sell your home faster, with no surprises.

Before you put your home on the market, consider the home seller inspection services available from Hidden Valley Property Inspection. The professional home inspector will provide you with a clear understanding of your home’s condition, including recommendations for property enhancements. You can then decide which improvements you’d like to make before listing your home or adjust the sale price to reflect the estimated cost of any repairs. Either way, a Hidden Valley Property Inspection home inspection gives you, potential buyers and real estate agents greater confidence in the condition of the property.

Pre-Listing Inspection

A Hidden Valley Property Inspection pre-listing home inspection provides you with comprehensive information on the current condition of your home and includes recommendations for property repairs and enhancements to improve the home’s value and marketability. You can work with your real estate agent to either decide which areas to improve before putting the house on the market, or to adjust the sale price to reflect any costs of repairs that would be revealed in a home inspection performed later by a potential home buyer during the contingency process. And if you’ve maintained and updated your home over the years, a pre-listing home inspection report serves as a valuable sales tool documenting the attention to detail and care you’ve taken in protecting your investment.

A Hidden Valley Property Inspection pre-listing home inspection includes hundreds of items, from the foundation to the roof and all the major systems of the house - electrical, plumbing and heating/air conditioning. The inspection takes the home inspector between 2 1/2 and 3 hours depending on the size of the home.

Frequently Asked Questions About Utah Home Inspections

Why Do I Need A Home Inspection?

The purchase of a home is the largest single investment you will ever make. You should learn as much as you can about the condition of the property and the need for any major repairs before you buy, so you can minimize unpleasant surprises and difficulties afterwards. After the inspection, you will have a much clearer understanding of the property. If you are already a homeowner, a home inspection may be used to identify problems in the making and take preventative measures which might avoid costly repairs in the future. If you are planing to sell your home on the market, you may wish to have an inspection performed prior to placing your home on the market. This will give you a better understanding of the conditions which may be discovered by the buyer's inspector and an opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in a better selling position. Having an inspection will help you comply with current disclosure laws concerning the sale of your property.

Can I Do It Myself?

Even the most experienced homeowner lacks the knowledge and years of expertise of a professional home inspector. An inspector is familiar with the elements of home construction and remains completely objective and unemotional about the home.

Can A Home Inspection Fail?

NO! A professional home inspection is an examination of the condition of the home on the day it is inspected; it is not an appraisal, which determines market value or a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance, but rather describes its visible physical condition and indicates what may need major repairs in the near future.

Do I Have To Be There?

It is not necessary for you to be present for the inspection, however it is encouraged. The inspection will last between 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 hrs.

Who Hires The Inspector?

The Client usually retains the inspector. The Inspector works for you. The report cannot be given to anyone else without your written consent.

How Much Does It Cost?

The purchase of a property will likely be the most expensive investment people will make in their lives, it doesn't make sense to shop for the least expensive inspector you can find. What is the saying, "Pennywise and Pound Foolish". That is most certainly true, in todays world, you get what you pay for. Don't be fooled by individuals whose training consists of viewing a video tape for 2 hours and then claim to be a "House Inspector" Check for "Certifications" before hiring an inspector. No Home Inspection can guarantee there won't be problems, even new homes are not perfect on the day their new owners move in. A Certified Home Inspector can point out existing or potential problems that would require attention either by the seller or buyer. Please call 801-913-7183 for pricing.

You, the Buyer, are saving yourself from problems you never contemplated when buying the "Dream House" you wanted.

You, the Seller, are complying with current disclosure laws concerning the sale of your property.

About My Northern Utah Home Inspection Company

Hidden Valley Property Inspection of Sandy, Utah proudly offers home inspection services to clients seeking top quality, professionalism, and attention to detail.

Utah has some very unique weather and seasons, I am very aware of what each of Utah's seasons are doing to your potential new home, inside and out. I will be inspecting your next home or property with extreme patience and detail. I will inspect the home and property as if I were looking to buy it myself!

My Qualifications

Home Inspection Certification, Allied Business School, Laguna Beach, CA.

Bachelor of Science, Geography, University of Utah, Salt Lake City, UT.

I am a member in good standing with the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors. InterNACHI is one of the largest home inspection associations in the United States.

I fulfill 24 credit hours of continuing education and recurrent training every year to maintain the highest level of proficiency.

I follow InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.

I abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics.

Over 14 years of residential building and renovating experience.

I truly enjoy my work and it shows.

I am an ATP rated Pilot and Certified Flight Instructor. I bring my attention to detail and passion for proper training and certification in the Aviation field to my Inspection business and related services.

Did you know that Utah is one of the few states that does not have or require a state license for Home Inspectors?

I am giving you the assurance that I have put in the book work, time and money to get properly certified to highest possible level until the state of Utah requires Home Inspectors to pass and hold a state license to remain in business!

I have done as much on my own dime that I can to be the best at what I do. Please educate yourself before selecting your home inspector.

Ask them these questions...

1. Where did you get your training?
2. Are you certified/licensed? By Who? (NACHI, ASHI, etc.)
3. How do you keep proficient in your trade?
4. What kind of Inspection report do you use?

I am required by the above mentioned association, NACHI to take yearly recurrent training courses and tests in all fields relating to home inspections. I must pass these exams with an 80% or better to maintain my membership. (below is a breakdown of all required additional yearly training)

I invite you to visit: www.nachi.org for more details!

This is just one of many ways I can assure you that you are getting the best inspection for your time and money.

The yearly recurrent courses include: Structural, Roofing, Foundations, Electrical, Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning, Attics and Insulation, Fireplaces and Chimneys, Mold, Interior Fixtures, Exterior, Appliances, Doors and Windows, Pools and Saunas, and Termite and Rodent problems...Just to name a few!

You've found the house. Is it the right one?

A Home Inspection for the home buyer can make your dream home a worry-free reality.

Finding a new home can be exhilarating, but nothing's worse than buying your dream house, moving in, and finding out that there are serious issues. So make sure your experience is a positive one, all the way through, with home buyer inspection services from Hidden Valley Property Inspection. You'll know the condition of your prospective new home and will be able to make an informed decision, offer the right price, know what to expect once you move in and what to plan for in the years to come.

With a Hidden Valley Property Inspection home inspection, you'll receive a detailed, comprehensive report that explains the condition (both positive and negative) of the home's structural elements, major systems and components. The friendly, knowledgeable and experienced home inspector will answer any questions you may have about your home, during the inspection process or anytime afterwards, so you can make your purchasing decision with confidence.

Hidden Valley Property Inspection offers a number of home inspection services for home buyers, all with a complete report and color digital photographs. Call: 801-913-7183 or visit www.hiddenvalleypropertyinspection.com for more details and to book your next inspection online.

Standard Full-Home Inspection


A thorough inspection of the home's major systems, this home inspection is for the buyer who is primarily concerned with the systems that make the home livable. This visual home inspection includes hundreds of items, from the foundation to the roof and all the major systems of the house including electrical, plumbing and heating/air conditioning. The inspection takes between 2 1/2 and 3 hours depending on the size of the home.

Items inspected include:

Foundation
Structure
Basement or crawl space
Interior and exterior walls
Siding
Water heater
Heating and air conditioning systems
Electrical system
Plumbing system and fixtures
Porches and decks
Attic
Roof
Gutters
Fireplace and exterior chimney

Condominium/Townhome Inspection

Like houses, condos and townhouses should also be inspected before purchase. Hidden Valley Property Inspection provides an extensive inspection of the condominium or townhouse interior reviews the structure, mechanical, and plumbing, electrical and heating/AC systems within the unit, along with any built-in appliances. This inspection takes the home inspector 1 to 2 hours to complete and will provide you with peace of mind in knowing that the unit is sound.

Duplex/Multiplex Inspection

I provide comprehensive inspections for multi-unit properties (duplexes, multiplexes, etc.). Similar to a standard or extended full home inspection, this inspection reviews all visual aspects of the individual units of a property, as well as all shared major systems and structural components.

HUD/Foreclosed Inspection

These type of properties require the all of the important areas of a typical home inspection, but due to the nature of the property they need some additional attention to detail from the inspector. In most cases the previous occupant had to leave the property under forced or stressed circumstances. It is not uncommon to find intentional damage to the property from either the previous occupant or others since these homes often sit for long periods of time unoccupied.

Winterization following HUD Inspection

After your HUD home inspection, HUD requires the home to be Winterized. Hidden Valley Property Inspection is happy to offer this service.

I Only Work For You

You can count on Hidden Valley Property Inspection for a timely and accurate assessment of the condition of your potential new home. We work for you and you only. The knowledgeable and experienced home inspectors will explain the inspection process and findings to you, and answer any questions you may have at the time of the inspection and afterward should any arise.

Burglary Prevention Tips

* Make your home look occupied, and make it difficult to break in.

* Lock all outside doors and windows before you leave the house or go to bed. Even if it is for a short time, lock your doors.

* Leave lights on when you go out. If you are going to be away for a length of time, connect some lamps to automatic timers to turn them on in the evening and off during the day.

* Keep your garage door closed and locked.

* Don't allow daily deliveries of mail, newspapers or flyers build up while you are away. Arrange with the Post Office to hold your mail, or arrange for a friend or neighbor to take them regularly.

* Arrange for your lawn to be mowed if you are going away for an extended time.

* Check your locks on doors and windows and replace them with secure devices as necessary.

* Pushbutton locks on doorknobs are easy for burglars to open. Install deadbolt locks on all your outside doors.

* Sliding glass doors are vulnerable. Special locks are available for better security.

* Other windows may need better locks. Check with a locksmith or hardware store for alternatives.

Don't tempt a thief:

* Lawn mowers, snow blowers, barbecues and bicycles are best stored out of sight.

* Always lock your garden sheds and garages.

* Use curtains on garage and basement windows.

* Never leave notes on your door such as "Gone shopping."

Locks…get the best:

* No lock, regardless of its quality, can be truly effective. Key-in dead bolt locks provide minimum security. Ask a locksmith for advice on your situation.

* Change locks immediately if your keys are lost or stolen.

* When moving into a new home, have all locks changed.

Targeting the Outside:

* Have adequate exterior lighting. A motion-sensitive light is recommended for backyards.

* Trim trees and shrubs so that they cannot be used as hiding places for intruders.

* Make sure your door hinges are on the inside.

Windows:

* Most windows can be pinned for security.

* Drill a 3/16" hole on a slight downward slant through the inside window frame and halfway into the outside frame - place a nail in the hole to secure the window.

Alarms:

* An alarm system is excellent for home security. It provides peace of mind to homeowners, especially while on vacation. There is a wide variety of alarm systems on the market.

* Make several inquiries to different companies for the best security system available to you.

If Your Home Is Broken Into:

If you come home to find an unexplained open/broken window or door:

* Do not enter - the perpetrator may still be inside.

* Use a neighbor's phone to call police.

* Do not touch anything or clean up until the police have inspected for evidence.

* Write down the license plate numbers of any suspicious vehicles.

* Note the descriptions of any suspicious persons.

Other precautions you should take:

* Never leave keys under doormats, flowerpots, mailboxes or other "secret" hiding places -- burglars know where to look for hidden keys.

* Keep a detailed inventory of your valuable possessions, including a description of the items, date of purchase and original value, and serial numbers, and keep a copy in a safe place away from home -- this is a good precaution in case of fires or other disasters. Make a photographic or video record of valuable objects, heirlooms and antiques. Your insurance company can provide assistance in making and keeping your inventory.

* Trim your shrubbery around your home to reduce cover for burglars.

* Be a good neighbor. If you notice anything suspicious in your neighborhood, call 9 1 1 immediately.

* Mark your valuables with your driver's license number with an engraver you can borrow from your precinct. Marked items are harder for a burglar to dispose of and easier for police to recover.

* Form a Neighborhood Watch Group. It can help you work with your neighbors to improve security and reduce risk of burglary.

* Consider installing a burglar alarm system.

The MOST important thing YOU can do is CALL THE POLICE to report a CRIME or any SUSPICIOUS activity. You have to be the eyes of your neighborhood. And remember you can always remain a pair of anonymous eyes!

Remember the three L's of Crime Prevention: LIGHTS, LOCKS & the LAW!

Light up your residence, lock your doors at all times, and call the Law when you see something suspicious
Alarms:

* An alarm system is excellent for home security. It provides peace of mind to homeowners, especially while on vacation. There is a wide variety of alarm systems on the market.

* Make several inquiries to different companies for the best security system available to you.

Asbestos

What is Asbestos?

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance.

How Can Asbestos Affect My Health?

From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer in the forms of mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, and asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increase with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.

Where Can I Find Asbestos and When Can it Be a Problem?

Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos. Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:
steam pipes, boilers and furnace ducts insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly;
resilient floor tiles (vinyl asbestos, asphalt and rubber), the backing on vinyl sheet flooring, and adhesives used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers, and so may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal;
cement sheet, millboard and paper used as insulation around furnaces and wood-burning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers, and so may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation;
door gaskets in furnaces, wood stoves and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use;
soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly or water-damaged material may release fibers, and so will sanding, drilling or scraping the material;
patching and joint compounds for walls and ceilings, and textured paints. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos fibers;
asbestos cement roofing, shingles and siding. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, dilled or cut;
artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces, and other older household products, such as fireproof gloves, stove-top pads, ironing board covers and certain hairdryers; and
automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets.
Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found in the Home
Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
Older products, such as stove-top pads, may have some asbestos compounds.
Walls and floors around wood-burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard or cement sheets.
Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.
What Should Be Done About Asbestos in the Home?

If you think asbestos may be in your home, don't panic. Usually, the best thing to do is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. There is no danger unless the asbestos is disturbed and fibers are released and then inhaled into the lungs. Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don't touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage, such as tears, abrasions or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow. Sometimes, the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads and ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental or other appropriate agencies to find out proper handling and disposal procedures. If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present.

How to Identify Materials that Contain Asbestos

You can't tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos, or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. If you nevertheless choose to take the samples yourself, take care not to release asbestos fibers into the air or onto yourself. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled. Anyone who samples asbestos-containing materials should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before sampling and, at a minimum, should observe the following procedures:
Make sure no one else is in the room when sampling is done.
Wear disposable gloves or wash hands after sampling.
Shut down any heating or cooling systems to minimize the spread of any released fibers.
Do not disturb the material any more than is needed to take a small sample.
Place a plastic sheet on the floor below the area to be sampled.
Wet the material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent before taking the sample. The water/detergent mist will reduce the release of asbestos fibers.
Carefully cut a piece from the entire depth of the material using a small knife, corer or other sharp object. Place the small piece into a clean container (a 35-mm film canister, small glass or plastic vial, or high-quality resealable plastic bag).
Tightly seal the container after the sample is in it.
Carefully dispose of the plastic sheet. Use a damp paper towel to clean up any material on the outside of the container or around the area sampled. Dispose of asbestos materials according to state and local procedures.
Label the container with an identification number and clearly state when and where the sample was taken.
Patch the sampled area with the smallest possible piece of duct tape to prevent fiber release.
Send the sample to an asbestos analysis laboratory accredited by the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). Your state or local health department may also be able to help.

How to Manage an Asbestos Problem

If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal. Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material. Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so that fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely. Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent the release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket. With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make removal of asbestos later (if found to be necessary) more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor. Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos. Minor repairs should also be done by professionals, since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.

Repairs

Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended, since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed. If you nevertheless choose to do minor repairs, you should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before doing anything. Contact your state or local health department or regional EPA office for information about asbestos training programs in your area. Your local school district may also have information about asbestos professionals and training programs for school buildings. Even if you have completed a training program, do not try anything more than minor repairs. Before undertaking minor repairs, carefully examine the area around the damage to make sure it is stable. As a general rule, any damaged area which is bigger than the size of your hand is not considered a minor repair.

Before undertaking minor repairs, be sure to follow all the precautions described previously for sampling asbestos material. Always wet the asbestos material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent. Commercial products designed to fill holes and seal damaged areas are available. Small areas of material, such as pipe insulation, can be covered by wrapping a special fabric, such as re-wettable glass cloth, around it. These products are available from stores (listed in the telephone directory under "Safety Equipment and Clothing") which specialize in asbestos materials and safety items.

Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.

Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They and What Can They Do?

Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.

Asbestos professionals can conduct home inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise on the corrections that are needed, as well as who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair and remove asbestos materials.

Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so that there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.

The federal government offers training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also offer or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.

If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable and accredited -- especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.

Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described in federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removal or performed it improperly. Unnecessary removal is a waste of money. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.

In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work.

Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos.

If you hire an InterNACHI inspector who is trained in asbestos inspection:
Make sure that the inspection will include a complete visual examination, and the careful collection and lab analysis of samples. If asbestos is present, the inspector should provide a written evaluation describing its location and extent of damage, and give recommendations for correction or prevention.
Make sure an inspecting firm makes frequent site visits if it is hired to assure that a contractor follows proper procedures and requirements. The inspector may recommend and perform checks after the correction to assure that the area has been properly cleaned.
If you hire a corrective-action contractor:
Check with your local air pollution control board, the local agency responsible for worker safety, and the Better Business Bureau. Ask if the firm has had any safety violations. Find out if there are legal actions filed against it.
Insist that the contractor use the proper equipment to do the job. The workers must wear approved respirators, gloves and other protective clothing.
Before work begins, get a written contract specifying the work plan, cleanup, and the applicable federal, state and local regulations which the contractor must follow (such as notification requirements and asbestos disposal procedures). Contact your state and local health departments, EPA regional office, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration's regional office to find out what the regulations are. Be sure the contractor follows local asbestos removal and disposal laws. At the end of the job, get written assurance from the contractor that all procedures have been followed.
Assure that the contractor avoids spreading or tracking asbestos dust into other areas of your home. They should seal off the work area from the rest of the house using plastic sheeting and duct tape, and also turn off the heating and air conditioning system. For some repairs, such as pipe insulation removal, plastic bags may be adequate. They must be sealed with tape and properly disposed of when the job is complete.
Make sure the work site is clearly marked as a hazardous area. Do not allow household members or pets into the area until work is completed.
Insist that the contractor apply a wetting agent to the asbestos material with a hand sprayer that creates a fine mist before removal. Wet fibers do not float in the air as easily as dry fibers and will be easier to clean up.
Make sure the contractor does not break removed material into smaller pieces. This could release asbestos fibers into the air. Pipe insulation was usually installed in pre-formed blocks and should be removed in complete pieces.
Upon completion, assure that the contractor cleans the area well with wet mops, wet rags, sponges and/or HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) vacuum cleaners. A regular vacuum cleaner must never be used. Wetting helps reduce the chance of spreading asbestos fibers in the air. All asbestos materials and disposable equipment and clothing used in the job must be placed in sealed, leakproof, and labeled plastic bags. The work site should be visually free of dust and debris. Air monitoring (to make sure there is no increase of asbestos fibers in the air) may be necessary to assure that the contractor's job is done properly. This should be done by someone not connected with the contractor.

Caution!

Do not dust, sweep or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These actions will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet-mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractors.

Mid Winter Checklist

In the darkest part of the year, it´s tempting to try hibernating through the next couple months. If you can get a plan in place now though, you can get a jump on spring. The following home maintenance checklist provides a "to do" list for January, a list of seasonal sales, and a small kit to organize those items that you always seem to have to rummage for when decorating for Christmas next year.

After the work and mania that accompanies the holiday season, January provides an opportunity to regroup and reorganize.

-Do end of the year accounting. Set up file folder for current year´s taxes. Organize receipts and paperwork.

-Take down, clean, and store ornaments, decorations, and exterior lights. Recycle or store tree.

-De-clutter Christmas stuff. Give away or toss old, broken, or unused ornaments, decorations, lights, and those very sad ribbons.

-De-clutter a closet. Pick just one. Empty it. Sort by things to save, donate or sell, toss. Take the garbage out and set donations aside the same day. Clean the closet thoroughly. Of the stuff to save, put everthing that belongs somewhere else where it belongs. Organize the stuff that belongs in that closet and put it back. Pat yourself on the back and go have some fun. (If you have lots to declutter, pace yourself otherwise you´ll never be able to finish. Some experts suggest making decluttering appointments with yourself and making it a priority.)

-Replace drawer liners and shelf papers.

-Wander the house with a screwdriver and make a list of minor household repairs that can be done in a weekend. Tighten screws on drawers, doors, and furniture. Make a list of broken electrical face plates, missing pulls or knobs, locks that need lubrication, and spots that need caulking around sinks and tubs. Go to the home improvement store and buy everything you need to make all of your little repairs at once.

-Call the utility company to do an energy audit. By now you´ll have recieved your first big winter heating bill, and unless you live in Phoenix, you may be motivated to see how you can improve your home´s energy efficiency. While you´re at it, ask the utility if they can also test for radon gas—especially important if you don´t know if it´s ever been done.

-Plan annuals if you intend to start plants from seed. Start shopping for seeds and seed starting mix at the end of January. Use 1/2 gallon milk or orange juice containers cut down their length and stapled at the ends for starting trays.